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#CCI 550 9MM PRIMERS FULL#
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If you have something around the bench that causes vibration, or you pause for any length of time, it's a good idea to drop and pour back a few loads in order to get rid of any powder that may have settled in a dense lump over the metering port. This is so the powder flows under the same conditions every time. One last "tip", uniformity of powder drops is dependent on every stroke of the operating mechanism being the same. The latter will be a more accurate view of what you'll be seeing in a string of reloads using your powder measure setup. I would rather take a sheet of paper, drop and weigh each load, record the value, then use an online calculator for Standard Deviation or Mean Absolute Deviation. What do you mean you're uncomfortable? The average temperature is "Just Right" Checking powder drops by averaging 10 won't spot the case of one drop being way high and another being way low by the same amount but it sure could be an issue in your firearm when the "high" load is high pressure. Stand with one foot in a pail of ice water and the other in a pail of boiling water. It has major pitfalls as it only shows the average of ten loads dropped, not the consistency from one to the other.Īverages have their limits, for example. I'm not a big fan of the "Ten Average" method. For production handgun runs I don't care if a load is off by a tenth from ideal weight personally. This procedure has worked well enough I use it for all powders, including Unique. But you can use this to your advantage if the disk throws a slightly light or heavy charge - change the amount of powder in the hopper. Also, I note the amount of powder in the hopper as the hopper runs down the charges tend to creep up. Then I get the load closest to what I want and go for it. Then I measure five or six cases to be sure I'm getting the load I want (The disks are notorious for giving lighter loads than published). This is to get a good film on the disk and hopper and "innards" of everything. I find I have to almost fill the hopper and dump it back into the container a few times, then run 10 cases and I don't bother measuring them - I just dump the powder back in the hopper.
#CCI 550 9MM PRIMERS PRO#
I have the same press and Lee Pro powder drop. Magnum primers do take a firm strike for reliable ignition.
One possible side effect could be misfires if you have a weak or reduced hammer spring. I think you'll find that there won't be much difference although many claim a magnum primer will "open a group up". If you do elect to load with the magnum primers, just start lower and work up, but that's the proper way for any component change. Interchanging of magnum and standard primers is common in cold climates when loads are developed with certain temperature fussy powders. The magnum primer is designed to contain the higher pressures developed by magnum loads and keep them from blowing out when the firing pin strikes them. The biggest difference in a standard or magnum primer is cup thickness. Some regular primers can be just as "Hot" as a magnum primer. I've seen pictures of various primers when fired in a test fixture that shows the various flames developed. I fired a couple rounds with the mag primers and didn't notice any issues in pressure or even loss of accuracy. I had a tray of SP Magnum primers mixed in with regular and loaded a whole bunch of 9mm rounds just like normal. I don't know if I would do it on purpose but I did once by accident.
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